CLIMBING - EQUIPMENT
- Protection Gear
Gear comes in various shapes and sizes with
the main aim of protecting the climber from a fall and
to secure the climbing rope. Placed securely in cracks,
they are used as anchors or running belays.
or Chocks fall into two  areas generally
the Wedge and Hexcentric
and can be found on standard rope or tape, on special
high-tensile nylon cord [spectra] or on wire [the joints
often stronger than the wire itself]. Most are tapered
in such a way that they will lodge in a variety of crack
shapes and sizes, and vary from micro-nuts for tiny
cracks to huge aluminum wedges like the hexcentric.
The traditional wedge shaped nut the MOAC
with straight sides is still used. Today the most common
ones in use are the ones that have curved faces on them,
one convex and another concave and are more versatile.
The Walnut allows for three  stable
points of contact giving holding power, also giving
the option of left and right facing placements. The
tapering scoops make it possible to have secure placements
even when the nut is only half in.
Hexcentrics are like hexagonal in shape
but with five  sides of unequal size have a camming
action, which pulls tighter as the load increases and
allows them to be used in parallel-sided cracks.
camming devices] are very versatile and the placement
of protection is made easy by the design and the ability
to provide protection in previously impossible positions.
Today they are lot smaller, stronger and lighter due
the improvements in technology. They come in varied
sizes from 10mm to 200mm.
will find them in three  or four  cam devices
with the three  being for thinner or narrower placements,
these are less stable than the four cam.
Care must be taken when placing Friends into cracks
so that all the cams are in contact with the rock as
loose cams increase the chance of the cams to walk into
cracks which can reduce the holding power or make them
difficult to extract for the following climber. Cleaning
of the Friends should be done in warm water and mild
A Nut Key is required as it aids in
the removal of protection devices from stubborn cracks
and also prevents the knuckles from being skinned.
You are advice to seek advice
from the specialist shops and also learn the correct
way of placing the protection gear as each piece of
protection gear is different.
- Climbing, Fell Walking,
Mountaineering, Cycling, Mountain Biking, Watersports
and other Activities can be extremely dangerous
and can result in permanent disability or even
loss of life. Participants in these activities
should be aware of and accept these risks and
be responsible for their own involvement and
Lake District Let's Go can not be held responsible.
Always seek advice and information.